For easy access to the engine and for changing the spark plugs on the VR-6
engine, the radiator is a floating design which allows it to tip forward.
Release and Open the Hood.
Remove three Philips head screws directly at top, front, forward position
as you gaze down on the top of the radiator. These screws secure the top of
the total grill assembly.
Remove two Philips head screws recessed in each end in the lowest slot in
the lower grill vent (just above the front bumper).
Pull each end of the full width body panel contiguous with the lowest grill
vent forward. Be careful not to pull one end out too far without detaching the
opposite side. This body panel has two slots on either side hidden until extracted
that clip to 'T' pins on the corresponding side panels cushioned by plastic
'C' grommets. The entire grill assembly just forward of the radiator comes totally
free of the rig. Find a safe place to lay this as it could be easily damaged.
Directly covering the top of the radiator is a black metal cap secured on
either side of the radiator by two 13mm hex head body screws mounted vertically.
Remove these two screws. Gingerly, pull up on the radiator assembly not
by the black metal cap. This is only fastened to the top of the radiator assembly
by two broad flat arrowhead neoprene mounts. I used the cross bar just above
the two cooling fans aft of the radiator.
Work the radiator assembly UP and then FORWARD. This assembly is attached
by four swing arm brackets (two on each side). Place a buffer (cardboard or
such) between this radiator assembly and the bumper where it ultimately comes
to rest. The neoprene feet on each bottom corner of the radiator assembly are
probably grimy as they normally reside in two dimples in the lower frame and
serve as mounts cushioning the radiator.
Once the assembly has come UP, OUT and DOWN to rest on the bumper (with
cardboard), look over the top of the radiator. . . . . TA--DA , in full view
with total access are the spark plug high tension leads.
This reservoir is designed to show even the smallest amount of coolant loss.
The vehicle MUST be on level ground when the coolant level is observed and compared
to the lines marked on the outside of the reservoir. If the amount of loss is
very small, then add additional coolant and/or water. If there continues to be
coolant loss, the source of the leak must be determined. Check the hose clamp
connectors that Winnebago installs when they cut into the hot coolant lines to
supply hot coolant to the rear coach heater and water heater. Also check and tighten
the clamps inside the coach where they supply the coach heater and water
heater. If you see any dried pinkish powdery residue around these hose clamps,
that probably indicates the area of leakage.
VW specifically recommends the use of "G-12" coolant which is orangish-red
in color. This "G-12" is not a VW brand name or type of coolant but rather
a specification put out by Volkswagen/Audi and describes a coolant that is "nitrite-free,
nitrate-free, phosphate-free, silicate-free, borate-free, and amine-free formulation.
Do not add or mix the typical Prestone or other common brand name of coolant
which is green in color.
For a complete 5-page PDF document regarding DEX-COOL Anti-Freeze/Coolant,
see the "Havoline DEX-Cool"
information file. You must have Adobe Acrobat Reader already installed on your
computer in order to view the file. You will note towards the bottom of page two
that DEX-COOL meets the VW/Audi Specification G-12.